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DorWey Driving School  - Lesson 1

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NB All the subjects listed below will be covered during the first lesson. The headings in black are of a more conversational nature or 'chat' and are not covered on this web page. The headings in blue are short cuts to articles on this page of a more technical nature.

The first lesson will cover the following topics:

  1. An explanation of the two driving tests

  2. A brief description of the car

  3. A description of the course

  4. The cockpit check H-G-S-M-D-S

  5. The foot controls; accelerator, brake and clutch

  6. The hand controls; gears, parking brake and steering wheel.

  7. How to start the car

  8. Practical Operation - Basic moving off and stopping with the instructor taking care of most of the safety issues allowing the client to get to know the vehicle.

Car & Driving Routines

There are several routines that you must know and use. The first one to learn is the Cockpit Check.

Cockpit Check

This routine should be carried out when you first climb into the driver's seat. The first two items are safety checks and should be looked at as soon as you sit down. You can remember this routine in several ways. Just by remembering the list or as HGSMDS or  - Has Glen Seen My Dog Sir? -    Awful - but unforgettable!

H - G - S - M - D - S

Handbrake - Firmly on

Gears - Neutral

Seat - Set for comfort and reach, with head restraint in the correct place and all seat locks engaged

Mirrors - Adjusted for best views to the rear

Doors - All shut

Seatbelt(s) - Buckled and not twisted.


Foot Controls: Accelerator, Brake, Clutch.

 Layout of the foot controls in the car

 

 

The Accelerator (Gas pedal)

Function:

Regulates the fuel to engine.

  • Push pedal down - more fuel = faster speed.

  • Bring pedal up - less fuel = slower speed.

As you can see, the engine can be used to slow the car down as well as speed it up.  

Operation - Use your right foot. Keep the heel on the floor and use it as a pivot, use ball of foot to adjust pedal. The gas pedal is very sensitive in the lower gears so it just needs a squeeze rather than a push and we are talking about millimetres not centimetres. In first gear the gas pedal is especially sensitive so use it very gently. The good news is that as you change up through the gears it becomes less of a problem. In fifth gear, for example, you can push the gas pedal all the way to the floor and the car will quite gently pick up speed.

  The Footbrake 

Function - To slow down and stop vehicle. (Also operates red warning lights at the rear of vehicle.) 

Operation:

  • Use ball of right foot. Move right foot between the accelerator and the brake pedal. (The right foot is always over the brake pedal or the accelerator – never resting on the floor.) 

  • The brake is sensitive at slow speeds – so use it gently to avoid abrupt stops and the danger of rear end shunts.

  • The faster the speed the more pressure required to slow the vehicle. 

  • Under some circumstances, and to give early warning to following vehicles, you should consider partially pushing the brake pedal just to illuminate the brake lights (several flashes) before you actually use the brakes. 

  • If you are having to stop fairly quickly then try to time it so that you can ease off the brake just before the vehicle stops and then gently reapply it. This should result in a 'softer' stop.   

  • Brake sooner and softer - rather than later and harder. This will help prevent skidding, rear end shunts and give your passengers a relaxed drive.

(N.B. The brake can be used, if necessary, whilst changing gear. For example, when travelling down a hill.)

TIP

Anticipate when you are going to stop. Look for other vehicles ahead, slowing down. If their brake lights are coming on the driver's right foot is not on the gas pedal anymore - it is on the brake pedal! Don't leave your braking too late. If you brake sooner and more gently you will be able to measure the affect and adjust it so that you stop at the correct spot. This will also give more warning to following drivers.

 The Clutch 

Function -

  • Connects and disconnects the engine to/from the gearbox and wheels.  

  • Allows gear changing - with clutch pedal fully down. (i.e. engine fully disconnected from the gearbox). 

  • Allows the car to be stopped without stalling the engine - with clutch pedal fully down (i.e. engine fully disconnected from the wheels)

  • Allows the vehicle to be moved slowly - with clutch just at bite point (i.e. engine partially connected to the wheels).

Operation:

Clutch down (disconnecting engine) - Use ball of left foot pressing the clutch down quickly.

Clutch up (reconnecting engine) - Using ball of left foot let the clutch pedal rise to just under the biting point, then place the heel on the floor as a pivot, whilst the clutch pedal comes up slowly through the biting point.

  • When the clutch is not being used, keep the foot away from the pedal. This will prevent unintentional wear on the clutch plates (Expensive!)

  • Never slip the clutch to avoid changing gear.

 

 

TIP

The stall will happen when the engine is forced to slow down.

Assuming that you are in the correct gear, it is raising the clutch pedal too quickly that will cause the engine to stall.

This is so important that I am going to say it again - and in bigger letters!

Assuming that you are in the correct gear, it is raising the clutch pedal too quickly that will cause the engine to stall.

If the clutch pedal is raised too quickly the car will just not be able to move off that quickly. The car weighs about a tonne and that is an awful lot of inertia. (If you want to see what I mean by a tonne of inertia, try pushing a car. It will be very difficult to get moving but once it is on the move the effort is a lot less.) If the car cannot get going that quickly then the only other effect that can take place is that the engine will slow down. If the engine is forced to slow down too much it will eventually just stop, i.e. The Stall.  

If you use a bit of gas and are patient with the clutch - allowing the car to get moving as you raise the pedal slowly (2-3 seconds patient, on a level road) - you should not have any problems. Don’t let drivers behind get you into a panic, they don’t expect you to shoot off like a rocket.  

The main point is – let the car get going in its own time – don’t force the issue! 

Don’t be butch with the clutch!

 

 

Use this link to go to the dedicated Clutch Page where you will find more diagrams and information about how the clutch works.

You should definitely take a look at this page. It will help you understand how to operate the car and how to avoid the stall!       

 

Hand Controls: Gear Lever, Parking Brake, Steering Wheel.

The Gears and the Gear Lever 

Function: 

  • Enables the driver to change from one gear to another to match engine and road speeds. 

  • Allows the selection of neutral and reverse.

Operation

The gear stick is spring biased. Its rest position, whilst in neutral, will be located between 3rd and 4th gear (see 'green spot' on diagram). This spring, even though it is quite weak, can be bit of a nuisance. If you don’t press against the spring for 1st, 2nd and 5th gears you may end up going into the wrong gear. But it can also be very helpful for going into 3rd and 4th gears. If you follow the instruction below you should see what I mean. 

1st gear

Press gear stick directly to the left - against spring - and then push forwards up to 1st gear position - still pressing to the left (against the spring) all the way through

 

1st gear to 2nd gear

 Press gear stick to left - against spring - and then pull it backwards to 2nd gear position - still pressing to the left (against the spring) all the way through.

 

2nd gear to 3rd gear

Nudge gear stick forwards into neutral – the spring will then take it onto the green spot (see diagram) – then nudge forwards again and it will drop into 3rd gear position. Just let the gearbox sort it out.

 

3rd to 4th gear

Just pull gear stick straight back to the rear of the car into the 4th gear position.

 

4th to 5th gear

Nudge gear stick forwards into neutral then press fully over to the right and then push forwards into 5th gear position - still pressing to the right (against the spring) all the way through.

 

 

Gears:

  • Operated by the left hand. Used with the clutch (i.e. clutch fully depressed) to select gear.

  • The lever is spring biased to 'green spot'. (See diagram)

  • Don't rush the gear change and do it gently.

  • If necessary, use the foot brake to slow the car to the appropriate speed before selecting the gear. Don’t use the gearbox as a brake.

  • Don't look down at the lever, you need to know what is happening ahead! (If in doubt feel where the lever is.)

  • When changing gear imagine, in your mind’s eye, the illustration above.

  • Use 'block change' if necessary. (Block change is changing down without necessarily selecting intermediate gears.)

  • Stop the vehicle before selecting reverse gear. 

Slow speed = low gear. High speed = high gear 

As a very rough guide:

  • First gear 0-10 mph.

  • Second gear 10-20 mph.

  • Third gear 20-30 mph.

  • Fourth gear 30-40 mph.

  • Fifth gear for speeds above 40 mph.

You will find that gears are far more flexible than that but this will give you some idea of how they work.

To detect when a gear change should be taking place – listen to the sound of the engine. A ‘revvy’ engine may need a higher gear, which will quieten it down. If the engine sounds rough and feels lumpy and unresponsive, then a lower gear will be required. (Try to anticipate and change gear before the car displays these symptoms. It will be easier on the garage bills, fuel bills and be less tiring for you and your passengers).

For more information on gear ranges, look inside the covers of your logbook. 

The gear change should always be carried out in a methodical manner and without rush. (If you do rush a gear change you will probably shave, at the most, a second off the time and run the very real risk of selecting the wrong gear!)

 The gear stick doesn’t require muscle. It requires quiet confidence.

Use this link to go to the dedicated Gears Page where you will find more diagrams and information about how the gears work.

The Handbrake / Parking brake

Function

To secure the car when it is stationary. 

Operation:

  • Operated by the left hand.

  • To disengage - lift lever first (to free button) and then press the button in. Allow the lever to drop fully to the floor. Check that warning light isn't illuminated.

  • To engage - press button in, lift the lever fully, release the button and allow lever to drop down onto the next ratchet tooth.

  • Always stop the car on the foot brake with both hands on the wheel.

  • When the car is stationary apply the hand brake.

  • If you have stopped the vehicle, on the foot brake, whilst facing uphill then apply the hand brake. This will allow the right foot to be moved from the brake to the gas pedal without the car rolling back.

  • Apply the hand brake if the car is going to be stationary for more than about ten seconds and select neutral.

  • Apply the hand brake at pedestrian crossings to help stop the car being pushed onto the pedestrians, in the event of a rear end shunt.

The Steering Wheel  

Function:

Steers the front wheels of the car.

Operation: For full explanation of steering technique click on 'Steering Diagram' below

  • Hold steering wheel lightly at ten-to-two or quarter-to-three.

  • Don't cross arms.

  • Keep both hands on wheel as much as possible.

  • Use pull-push and don't allow wheel to spin back. See diagram below.

  • The faster the speed of the vehicle the more gentle you must be with steering.

  • The car will tend to steer towards where you are looking, so don’t stare at the kerb or white lines near the car.

  • Sharp corners require large rapid steering movements coupled with slow speed.

  • Don't 'dry steer. (Dry steering is steering whilst stationary. This may cause damage to tyres and steering mechanism.

  • When driving in adverse weather take a firmer grip and be prepared to correct the steering if it is affected by cross-winds or surface water. Steer very gently in slippery conditions.

Some people find that mastering the Pull-Push method of steering a little difficult at first. On the odd occasion a whole lesson has been spent on a car park going around in circles and figure 8s. Part of the problem is that on the first lesson the client has several new tasks to perform at the same time. If each task could be isolated and practised it would make life a lot easier. This isn't possible on some of the tasks but fortunately the steering can be practised at home. Click on the link to the diagram, below and, using a large circular plate or tray, practice and practice turning left and turning right. Imagine that you are drying it with a tea towel. Practice this before your first lesson - it will be extremely helpful!

 

Tip 1

The car's steering is set up so that it will try to steer itself in a straight line. If there was no steering input from the driver and if there were no other forces at work, like a side-wind, the car would just very slowly drift over to the left of the road  The only reason it drifts to the left is that the road is engineered to shelve slightly away from the centre to aid drainage (known as 'road camber').  The point being that driving a car need not be and should not be a white-knuckle ride. If you do feel the car is moving off your chosen line relax your grip a little on the steering wheel, gently adjust and try not to overcorrect . Many drivers in the early lessons tend to overcorrect and then in order to correct that, they overcorrect again, which leads to the car taking a slightly snakey route down the road.

Tip 2

If you are steering around a sharp corner and applying a lot of steering, don't wait until the car has completed the turn before starting to take the steering off. If you do you won't have enough time and space to straighten and you will end up driving towards the pavement. Start straightening up before the turn is complete. At what point you do this will depend on how much steering has been applied and how fast the car is travelling - see next tip.

Tip 3

If you are applying a lot of steering don't use the gas pedal to speed the car up before you have taken a good part of the steering off. If you do you will be heading towards the pavement because you just won't have time or space to take the steering off.

Most people 'get' the steering fairly quickly. You may find it difficult at first but it is amazing how quickly the brain picks up on this stuff.

 

Use this link to go to the dedicated Steering  Page where you will find more diagrams and information about how to steer.

You should definitely take a look at this page. It has an animated picture on the pull-push steering technique. Studying and practising this at home could save you a few pounds in training fees!                    

How to Start the Car and Move off

(NB. Unlike most cars the Yaris requires the clutch to be pressed down before the engine will start.)

Preparing the car to move off requires several inputs from the driver. At first the sequence may be hard to remember but very shortly, with the help of this web page, you will be carrying it out with little difficulty.

On this very first lesson (only) the driving instructor will be taking care of the safety issues, such as other traffic on the road. This will give the client more opportunity to see how the car works and how they, the driver, operates it.

Getting the car going!

NB Just before starting the engine you should always make one final check that the car is in neutral.

  1. Press the clutch pedal all the way down.

  2. Whilst holding the steering wheel with the left hand, turn the engine on.

  3. With clutch pedal still down, select first gear.

  4. Lightly press the gas pedal to increase the revs. and then bring the clutch pedal up to bite point.

  5. Handbrake up with button in (but don't drop it yet).

  6. When it is safe to move off - Allow the handbrake to drop to the floor. Briefly pause on the pedals to allow the car to get going and then, whilst gently applying gas, allow the clutch to come up s-l-o-w-l-y all the way to the top.

The Yaris is unusual in requiring the clutch to be pressed down before the engine will start. Nevertheless is is a good practice to use on all cars and quite a lot of more thoughtful drivers will do this on all cars. The benefits are: 1. If you inadvertently start the car whilst in gear the car will not move off as soon as you turn the engine on. 2. If the clutch is pressed down when the engine is started the starter motor will only be turning the engine over, rather than engine plus gearbox. This means that there is less work for the starter motor and battery which will mean a quicker start, especially on cold and frosty mornings when the battery may be on the weak side and reluctant to turn the engine over!

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Copyright Information - January 2002. The copyright of this web site and the downloads found within (apart from third party material) belongs to its author, Paul Pearson ADI - DorWey Driving School. Material may not be reproduced or used in any form or by any means, in whole or in part, without prior written permission from the author. The diagrams and information found on this page are for the exclusive use of DorWey Driving School clients. If any driving instructor or driving school wishes to use any of the material found on this page they must first contact DorWey Driving School.

If anyone finds that this material is being used elsewhere please e-mail DorWey Driving School. E-mail here------> Report

 

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