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Client's Lessons & Downloads





For driving instructors or those thinking
about becoming a driving instructor.




Client's Lessons & Downloads
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DorWey
Driving School - The Clutch
This page is available as part of
Lesson 1 and is also a 'How To Operate It' page.
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The following notes
are mainly for clients who have already had the in-car briefing, where they
will have been given a full explanation about the workings of the clutch along with the Graphic Briefing illustrations. Clients who have not had the
first lesson are encouraged to have a look at this page but don't be put off
if you don't understand it all. I find that on the first lesson clients
quite quickly grasp how the clutch works. |
Suggestion:
It will be easier to understand the following information if you can look at
the diagrams whilst reading the text. Print the complete page and then you can
refer to the diagrams as you read the text. Once printed put the pages into
a ring binder for future reference. |
I consider that it is
very important that you do understand how the clutch works because this
knowledge will help you avoid the stall and also help you to avoid expensive
garage bills when you have your own car.
Menu
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Clutch operation
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Clutch illustration
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Tips to successful start off
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Tips to
a successful use of the clutch whilst on the move
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How to recover from the stall
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If you haven't looked at the
'How the Engine Works' page here
is a brief and uncomplicated explanation of how it does work.
As each piston rises to the top of
its cylinder a fuel/air mixture is ignited. The resulting explosion forces the
pistons back down the cylinder. This up and down movement is converted into a
circular motion by the crankshaft. On the end of the crankshaft is a large
circular disc which is called the 'Engine Flywheel'. The rotating flywheel provides the drive to the car's road wheels.
To control this drive we have a device called the clutch.
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Engine running with
clutch pedal pressed down.
When the clutch pedal is
pressed down, the clutch plate is separated from the flywheel. |
When the Clutch Pedal is pressed
down the Clutch Plate moves away from the Engine Flywheel. The
engine is now separated from the gearbox and road wheels. The engine may be
running but it is not passing on any motion to the rest of the car.
Pressing the clutch pedal down
breaks the connection between the engine and the gearbox. The clutch plate stops
rotating, which means that the gears in the gearbox also stop rotating. We can
now select 1st gear without damaging the gearbox.
When the clutch
pedal is up the clutch plate is pressed (by a very powerful
spring) firmly up against the engine flywheel so they both turn together.
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Engine running with
clutch pedal up.
With the clutch pedal up the
clutch plate is pressed firmly against the flywheel. |
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Once 1st gear is selected the
easy thing would be to just take the foot off the clutch pedal - but this
would mean that the clutch plate would just bang up against the flywheel and
the car engine would stop! There
is no way that the car, a tonne weight, can get going that quickly. If you
look at the diagram above you will see that the
clutch plate is directly attached, through the gearbox, to the car's wheels. If the car is
stationary then so is the clutch plate. The clutch plate can only start to
rotate as the car's wheels start to revolve and this has to happen slowly to
allow the engine time to overcome the car's inertia (i.e. reluctance to
move). If the driver doesn't control the
clutch plate and just allows it to rapidly spring back against flywheel, the clutch plate (which has the tonne weight of the car attached to
it) will force the engine to slow down. If it slows the engine down too
much the engine will just give up and stop! i.e. The Stall. |
The trick is to give the engine a
little more muscle (i.e. a little bit of gas) and then bring the clutch up to
bite point (called the friction point in Australia - which is probably a better
description). You will know when bite point has been achieved by a slight drop
in engine noise. This is caused by the engine slowing down slightly as the
stationary clutch plate just starts to grip the flywheel. (If the clutch plate
grips it too much the engine will be forced to slow even more - and stop.) You
may also notice the bonnet rising. Once you have established
that it is safe to move off all you have to do is release the brake and the car
will start moving slowly forwards. Now
is not the time to be impatient! Pause slightly and hold the
clutch pedal where it is as the car starts moving, then just let the clutch pedal come up slowly
through the bite point, allowing the car to get going in its own time - which is
about 2-3 seconds when on the level. As the clutch pedal comes up introduce a
bit more gas. Don't be alarmed by the engine making more noise because at this
stage the speed is controlled by the clutch.

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Watch this diagram over and
over and see what is happening at each stage as the clutch pedal comes
up. |
When the clutch pedal is pressed down the
clutch
plate moves away from the engine flywheel. This disconnects the
engine from the gearbox so there is no drive to the road wheels. When the gear has been selected
the clutch pedal is lifted so that the clutch plate just touches the
flywheel (bite point) then it
is lifted S--L--O--W--L--Y so the clutch plate gradually takes up
the drive from the flywheel.
When
setting off from a stopped position release the brake
and pause briefly on the clutch, to
allow the car to start moving, before continuing to raise the clutch
pedal slowly. |
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If the clutch pedal comes
up too quickly , at a given engine speed, the car will either stall or start off
far too quickly.
If the clutch pedal is raised more slowly, at the same engine speed,
the car will move off in a controlled and far less alarming manner.
Make sure that you raise the clutch slowly ALL THE WAY TO THE TOP! If you
just let go of it halfway up you may experience one of two
extremes. Either a sudden and uncontrolled acceleration or a really nasty
and aggressive stall. But don't
worry - you now know how to avoid this.
Just gently bring the clutch pedal up all the way to the top of its travel.
It really is that simple! |
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The
clutch breaks the connection between the engine and the rest of the vehicle. With the clutch pedal down you can
do what you like with the engine. You can rev it up, slow it down or switch
it off and it will have no effect on the motion of the car. With the clutch
pedal down you can also stop the car (with the brakes) without stopping the
engine at the same time.
Once
the car is on the move we don't have to get over the car's tonne of inertia
so we don't have to be quite so slow when bringing the clutch pedal
up. We still have to bring it up carefully to match the speeds of the clutch
plate and flywheel but it can be a bit quicker than when setting off from a
dead stop. |
I think that you will
agree that the way the clutch works is quite uncomplicated. If you just keep
remembering that fact and treat it gently, you won't go far
wrong.

Tips
to a successful start off:
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Use a bit of gas - don't allow
the car to stagger
off with the engine just slowly ticking-over.
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Don't be too high on the clutch bite
point before you set off. If you see the bonnet rise too much and feel / hear
the car complaining before you release the brake you should press the clutch pedal down
a little to relieve the stress on the engine. NB The movement around bite point should be measured in millimetres
and not centimetres.
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If, as you set off, you feel that the car is
on the point of a stall, lower the clutch pedal slightly and hold it
there for a moment. This will ease the load on the engine and allow the car to
get going at a speed that it is happy with.
-
Once you find out where the
clutch pedal bite point is you will be able to bring it up to just below this point
fairly
quickly - and then slow it down for the actual bite point operation.
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When you first move off don't be
too eager to start lifting the clutch pedal. Allow the car a moment to pick up
a bit of speed before you continue to raise the clutch slowly up through the
bite point.
-
Don't abandon the clutch pedal
before it reaches the top. It must be controlled all the way as it travels up
through the bite point.

Tips
to a successful use of the clutch whilst on the move:
-
When the car is on the move the clutch
doesn't have to be raised quite so slowly as you change gear. The car (the tonne weight) is on
the move - the engine doesn't have the problem of overcoming inertia.
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Before changing gear the gas
pedal should be raised as the clutch pedal goes down. (Otherwise, as the
clutch pedal goes down the engine will rev up because it has no load on it -
see illustration to help work this out.)
-
As the gas pedal is raised the
engine will slow down - which means that the engine flywheel will also slow
down. On the other hand, the clutch plate is attached (through the gearbox) to
the road wheels so the clutch plate will be revolving quite quickly. This
means that as the clutch pedal is bought back up there will be a miss-match
between the speeds of the fast clutch plate and the slow flywheel. We can
overcome this in two ways. (1) Bringing the clutch pedal up slowly will allow
the clutch plate to gently increase the speed of the flywheel as the two
components meet so they just 'blur' together. (2) Increasing the flywheel
speed (using the gas pedal) will also help. If you don't do this there can be
quite severe jolt as the two miss-matched components meet each other. The
quicker the clutch comes up - the harder the jolt
so always raise the clutch pedal slowly all the way to the top of its
travel. If you make a habit of mistreating the clutch you
may eventually destroy it and this style of driving
won't be doing the engine and gearbox much good either.
Operate the car correctly and keep
your garage bills down.
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When the clutch pedal is not in
use don't rest you foot on top of it because this can lead to clutch wear.
-
When
travelling at very low speeds (e.g. around sharp corners) have your foot ready
to press the clutch pedal down before the brake pedal, otherwise the engine may stall.
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Finally. Assuming you are in the
correct gear and that you have enough gas, the only thing that will cause the
stall to happen is the clutch pedal coming up too quickly.
So, Take
Your Time! |
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How to recover from
a stall
If you do stall, keep calm.
Everyone stalls a car now and again.
If you keep calm and methodical the problem will be over and you will be on
your way in a very short space of time.
There are two ways to deal with the
situation and this will depend on where the stall happens.
Situation1: The stall happens where
the car is relatively safe, e.g. when in a queue of traffic or when moving off from the side
of the road.
Solution:
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Hold the car on the footbrake to
prevent the car rolling onto other road users
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Quickly glance down to check that you are in 1st gear
(you may
have stalled because you tried to set off in the wrong gear) and as you do
this:
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Clutch down
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Restart engine
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Bite point
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Proceed when safe to do so by
releasing the footbrake and quickly applying a bit of gas before
bringing the clutch pedal up slowly through the bite point.
NB if you are on an uphill slope you
may have to engage your handbrake so that you can move your foot off the
brake pedal and over to the gas pedal, before setting off.
Situation 2: The stall happens where
it is not safe, e.g. you have emerged and you are in an unsafe position on a roundabout or a busy road. Under these circumstances it may sometimes be better not to stop the car. If this is the case then:
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Clutch down - don't use the brake -
keep the car rolling if you can.
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Glance down and check that you are
in the right gear as you quickly restart the engine.
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Bite point and proceed if safe to do
so.
NB Keeping the car moving may
be the answer even in a 'safe' situation, it may prevent a rear end shunt
but the driver will have to be quick witted, react to the problem
skilfully and be very aware of the situation all around the car!
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Guilty of stating the
blindingly obvious here but the best solution is to avoid the stall.
Just make sure that you are always in the correct gear before setting
off, apply some gas and just be patient with the clutch! |
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Copyright Information
- January 2002.
The copyright of
this web site and the downloads found within (apart from third party material) belongs to its author, Paul Pearson
ADI - DorWey Driving School. Material may not be reproduced or used in any form or
by any means, in whole or in part, without prior written permission from the
author. The diagrams and information found on this page are for the exclusive
use of DorWey Driving School clients. If any driving instructor or driving
school wishes to use any of the material found on this page they must first
contact DorWey Driving School.
If anyone finds that this material is being
used elsewhere please e-mail DorWey Driving School.
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