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DorWey Driving School  - The Clutch

This page is available as part of Lesson 1 and is also a 'How To Operate It'  page.

The following notes are mainly for clients who have already had the in-car briefing, where they will have been given a full explanation about the workings of the clutch along with the Graphic Briefing illustrations. Clients who have not had the first lesson are encouraged to have a look at this page but don't be put off if you don't understand it all. I find that on the first lesson clients quite quickly grasp how the clutch works.

Suggestion: It will be easier to understand the following information if you can look at the diagrams whilst reading the text. Print the complete page and then you can refer to the diagrams as you read the text. Once printed put the pages into a ring binder for future reference.

I consider that it is very important that you do understand how the clutch works because this knowledge will help you avoid the stall and also help you to avoid expensive garage bills when you have your own car.

Menu

  1. Clutch operation

  2. Clutch illustration

  3. Tips to successful start off

  4. Tips to a successful use of the clutch whilst on the move

  5. How to recover from the stall

If you haven't looked at the 'How the Engine Works' page here is a brief and uncomplicated explanation of how it does work.

As each piston rises to the top of its cylinder a fuel/air mixture is ignited. The resulting explosion forces the pistons back down the cylinder. This up and down movement is converted into a circular motion by the crankshaft. On the end of the crankshaft is a large circular disc which is called the 'Engine Flywheel'. The rotating flywheel provides the drive to the car's road wheels. To control this drive we have a device called the clutch.

Engine running with clutch pedal pressed down.

When the clutch pedal is pressed down, the clutch plate is separated from the flywheel.

 

When the Clutch Pedal is pressed down the Clutch Plate moves away from the Engine Flywheel. The engine is now separated from the gearbox and road wheels. The engine may be running but it is not passing on any motion to the rest of the car.

Pressing the clutch pedal down breaks the connection between the engine and the gearbox. The clutch plate stops rotating, which means that the gears in the gearbox also stop rotating. We can now select 1st gear  without damaging the gearbox.

When the clutch pedal is up the clutch plate is pressed (by a very powerful spring) firmly up against the engine flywheel so they both turn together.

Engine running with clutch pedal up.

With the clutch pedal up the clutch plate is pressed firmly against the flywheel.

Once 1st gear is selected the easy thing would be to just take the foot off the clutch pedal - but this would mean that the clutch plate would just bang up against the flywheel and the car engine would stop!

There is no way that the car, a tonne weight, can get going that quickly. If you look at the diagram above you will see that the clutch plate is directly attached, through the gearbox, to the car's wheels. If the car is stationary then so is the clutch plate. The clutch plate can only start to rotate as the car's wheels start to revolve and this has to happen slowly to allow the engine time to overcome the car's inertia (i.e. reluctance to move). If the driver doesn't control the clutch plate and just allows it to rapidly spring back against flywheel, the clutch plate (which has the tonne weight of the car attached to it) will force the engine to slow down. If it slows the engine down too much the engine will just give up and stop! i.e. The Stall.

The trick is to give the engine a little more muscle (i.e. a little bit of gas) and then bring the clutch up to bite point (called the friction point in Australia - which is probably a better description). You will know when bite point has been achieved by a slight drop in engine noise. This is caused by the engine slowing down slightly as the stationary clutch plate just starts to grip the flywheel. (If the clutch plate grips it too much the engine will be forced to slow even more - and stop.) You may also notice the bonnet rising. Once you have established that it is safe to move off all you have to do is release the brake and the car will start moving slowly forwards. Now is not the time to be impatient! Pause slightly and hold the clutch pedal where it is as the car starts moving, then just let the clutch pedal come up slowly through the bite point, allowing the car to get going in its own time - which is about 2-3 seconds when on the level. As the clutch pedal comes up introduce a bit more gas. Don't be alarmed by the engine making more noise because at this stage the speed is controlled by the clutch.

 

Watch this diagram over and over and see what is happening at each stage as the clutch pedal comes up.

When the clutch pedal is pressed down the clutch plate moves away from the engine flywheel. This disconnects the engine from the gearbox so there is no drive to the road wheels. When the gear has been selected  the clutch pedal is lifted so that the clutch plate just touches the flywheel (bite point) then it is lifted  S--L--O--W--L--Y so the clutch plate gradually takes up the drive from the flywheel.

When setting off from a stopped position release the brake and pause briefly on the clutch, to allow the car to start moving, before continuing to raise the clutch pedal slowly.

 

If the clutch pedal comes up too quickly , at a given engine speed, the car will either stall or start off far too quickly. If the clutch pedal is raised more slowly, at the same engine speed, the car will move off in a controlled and far less alarming manner.

Make sure that you raise the clutch slowly ALL THE WAY TO THE TOP! If you just let go of it halfway up you may experience one of two extremes. Either a sudden and uncontrolled acceleration or a really nasty and aggressive stall. But don't worry - you now know how to avoid this. Just gently bring the clutch pedal up all the way to the top of its travel. It really is that simple!

The clutch breaks the connection between the engine and the rest of the vehicle. With the clutch pedal down you can do what you like with the engine. You can rev it up, slow it down or switch it off and it will have no effect on the motion of the car. With the clutch pedal down you can also stop the car (with the brakes) without stopping the engine at the same time.

Once the car is on the move we don't have to get over the car's tonne of inertia so we don't have to be quite so slow when bringing the clutch pedal up. We still have to bring it up carefully to match the speeds of the clutch plate and flywheel but it can be a bit quicker than when setting off from a dead stop.

I think that you will agree that the way the clutch works is quite uncomplicated. If you just keep remembering that fact and treat it gently, you won't go far wrong.

Tips to a successful start off:

  1. Use a bit of gas - don't allow the car to stagger off with the engine just slowly ticking-over.

  2. Don't be too high on the clutch bite point before you set off. If you see the bonnet rise too much and feel / hear the car complaining before you release the brake you should press the clutch pedal down a little to relieve the stress on the engine. NB The movement around bite point should be measured in millimetres and not centimetres.

  3. If, as you set off, you feel that the car is on the point of a stall, lower the clutch pedal slightly and hold it there for a moment. This will ease the load on the engine and allow the car to get going at a speed that it is happy with.

  4. Once you find out where the clutch pedal bite point is you will be able to bring it up to just below this point fairly quickly - and then slow it down for the actual bite point operation.

  5. When you first move off don't be too eager to start lifting the clutch pedal. Allow the car a moment to pick up a bit of speed before you continue to raise the clutch slowly up through the bite point.

  6. Don't abandon the clutch pedal before it reaches the top. It must be controlled all the way as it travels up through the bite point.

Tips to a successful use of the clutch whilst on the move:

  1. When the car is on the move the clutch doesn't have to be raised quite so slowly as you change gear. The car (the tonne weight) is on the move - the engine doesn't have the problem of overcoming inertia.

  2. Before changing gear the gas pedal should be raised as the clutch pedal goes down. (Otherwise, as the clutch pedal goes down the engine will rev up because it has no load on it - see illustration to help work this out.)

  3. As the gas pedal is raised the engine will slow down - which means that the engine flywheel will also slow down. On the other hand, the clutch plate is attached (through the gearbox) to the road wheels so the clutch plate will be revolving quite quickly. This means that as the clutch pedal is bought back up there will be a miss-match between the speeds of the fast clutch plate and the slow flywheel. We can overcome this in two ways. (1) Bringing the clutch pedal up slowly will allow the clutch plate to gently increase the speed of the flywheel as the two components meet so they just 'blur' together. (2) Increasing the flywheel speed (using the gas pedal) will also help. If you don't do this there can be quite severe jolt as the two miss-matched components meet each other. The quicker the clutch comes up - the harder the jolt so always raise the clutch pedal slowly all the way to the top of its travel. If you make a habit of mistreating the clutch you may eventually destroy it and this style of driving won't be doing the engine and gearbox much good either. Operate the car correctly and keep your garage bills down.

  4. When the clutch pedal is not in use don't rest you foot on top of it because this can lead to clutch wear.

  5. When travelling at very low speeds (e.g. around sharp corners) have your foot ready to press the clutch pedal down before the brake pedal, otherwise the engine may stall.

Finally. Assuming you are in the correct gear and that you have enough gas, the only thing that will cause the stall to happen is the clutch pedal coming up too quickly. So, Take Your Time!

     

 

How to recover from a stall

If you do stall, keep calm.

Everyone stalls a car now and again. If you keep calm and methodical the problem will be over and you will be on your way in a very short space of time.


There are two ways to deal with the situation and this will depend on where the stall happens.

Situation1: The stall happens where the car is relatively safe, e.g. when in a queue of traffic or when moving off from the side of the road.

Solution:

  1. Hold the car on the footbrake to prevent the car rolling onto other road users

  2. Quickly glance down to check that you are in 1st gear (you may have stalled because you tried to set off in the wrong gear) and as you do this:

  3. Clutch down

  4. Restart engine

  5. Bite point

  6. Proceed when safe to do so by releasing the footbrake and quickly applying a bit of gas before bringing the clutch pedal up slowly through the bite point.

NB if you are on an uphill slope you may have to engage your handbrake so that you can move your foot off the brake pedal and over to the gas pedal, before setting off.

Situation 2: The stall happens where it is not safe, e.g. you have emerged and you are in an unsafe position on a roundabout or a busy road. Under these circumstances it may sometimes be better not to stop the car. If this is the case then:

  1. Clutch down - don't use the brake - keep the car rolling if you can.

  2. Glance down and check that you are in the right gear as you quickly restart the engine.

  3. Bite point and proceed if safe to do so.

NB Keeping the car moving may be the answer even in a 'safe' situation, it may prevent a rear end shunt but the driver will have to be quick witted, react to the problem skilfully and be very aware of the situation all around the car!

Guilty of stating the blindingly obvious here but the best solution is to avoid the stall. Just make sure that you are always in the correct gear before setting off, apply some gas and just be patient with the clutch!

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Copyright Information - January 2002. The copyright of this web site and the downloads found within (apart from third party material) belongs to its author, Paul Pearson ADI - DorWey Driving School. Material may not be reproduced or used in any form or by any means, in whole or in part, without prior written permission from the author. The diagrams and information found on this page are for the exclusive use of DorWey Driving School clients. If any driving instructor or driving school wishes to use any of the material found on this page they must first contact DorWey Driving School.

If anyone finds that this material is being used elsewhere please e-mail DorWey Driving School. E-mail here------> Report

 

 

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